Feeling somewhat better, but still having slept until after noon today (a common sign I'm depressed; I see sleep as "death but without all that responsibility" during these times), I decided to borrow from a favorite blog of mine, Perfume Shrine. There is a longish description of one of my all time favorite perfumes, Miss Dior. I've edited it somewhat.
Technically a floral leathery chypre, Miss Dior is a soigné miss only in exterior appearances, all prim and proper, because once inside the beast takes over and you smell the animal in its peak of copulating frenzy. Although there is the clean overlay of soft flowers you catch a whiff of more feral, impolite essences. Under the clean exterior there is the carnal cat-call and you feel as if it is perhaps too scrubbed clean to be without ulterior motive.
The base is smothered in troubling patchouli, moss and earthy vetiver. However, this is not the pared-down patchouli of modern fragrances that is so ubiquitous in everything churned out at a frantic pace in the last couple of years.
Christian Dior confided that
"...I created this perfume to dress every woman with a trail of desire, and to see emerging from her small bottle all my dresses...”.
Based on a formula by Jean Carles, it was composed by Paul Vacher, introduced in 1946, and later re-arranged in 1992 by Edmond Roudnitska in extrait de parfum. It hoped to open new vistas of optimism after the privations of the war and in a way it did.
It is interesting to note that by today’s standards Miss Dior smells “old-fashioned”, even though it was conceived as a young fragrance aimed at debutantes. Less polite souls would baptize it “old lady”, a blanket term so lacking in qualitative nuance that renders it completely useless.
Indeed, I was able to witness its effect personally. I happened to spritz a vintage (circa 1985) emerging from a ladies’ restroom, washing in front of two teenager girls who were watching me through the mirror while glossing their puckered lips. Aren’t those times titillating for budding womanhood? Of course I volunteered to scent them, ever eager to introduce young girls into proper perfumes. One of them staggered back in what seemed like abject horror (judging by the look in her eye) professing the opinion it was “too heavy for her”, the other was more cooperative and allowed me two spritzes on her woolen scarf. Although at first she too seemed a little overwhelmed, after a minute, when alcohol had evaporated, she took the scarf close to her nose and nuzzled deeply. Yeah, there was a look of mischief in her eye as she thanked me.
And there you have it: Miss Dior has this double effect; it will make some think it’s heavy and old, it will entrance others on second sniff.
These days, Miss Dior is difficult to find but worth searching out. Before our first date, Delightful Date literally made a trip to Saks in the Galleria to discover it before we met. He had asked my perfume preference beforehand, admitting it was important to him. Later, I admired him when he described his trip to Saks. He'd quickly dismissed the new and semi-offensive Miss Dior Cherie when the staff offered it to him, stating "that can't be the right one; it smells like it belongs on a 12-year old".
I also admit to a dreadful weakness for Mugler's Angel. When it was introduced, I let the perfume sniper at Neiman's park score a hit on me on my way out. As it dried down, I realized I liked it so much that I literally turned around on Central Expressway, returned to Northpark and bought my first fix.